New Shoes ... For My Brakes!

Wow ... is it really November already?  It feels like summer just began. Let the updates begin ...

In my last post, I showed you some new shoes ... well "new" was a relative term since I'd been wearing them for quite some time before writing about them.  In any case, while we're still on the topic (over a month later, since I haven't written about anything else since then), let's talk about more new shoes ... this time for my brakes!

I ordered my Hunqapillar (a.k.a. Funqapillar) with the new-at-the-time Shimano CX-70 cantilever brakes, and have been very happy with them ... but always felt the pads were a bit lacking in the "grabby-ness" department.  I wanted to give the system plenty of time before making any changes, though ... for two reasons.  First, brake pads always have a bit of a break-in period as they lose the shiny surface, after which they tend to perform better.  Second, the Velocity Synergy rims on my wheels do not have machined brake surfaces, which means they aren't perfectly smooth initially ... but become smooth with regular braking over time as the pads work like light sanding blocks to even out the rough spots.  I'm not exactly heavy-handed on the brakes, so for me, it takes a little time to break in the rims.  So I left the factory pads on the brakes and let them do their job until such time as they needed replacement.

Well, after several months of riding, I realized it was time for a thorough bike cleaning and full routine maintenance checkup.  Bikes get dirty, especially if you explore dirt roads and trails, and ride in salty air along the coast.  The "not being shiny like new" part isn't a big deal for me.  I just see it as a sign of a bike that's well-loved and well-used.  But what I do care about is making sure everything is kept in proper working order, which means looking at everything from top to bottom, cleaning, lubricating, making adjustments, tightening anything that might need it, and replacing anything that shows signs of excessive wear, breakage, or malfunction.  I decided I'd change out the brake pads, even though they were still in good condition, since I wanted to see if different pads would improve the performance.  I removed the black factory pads (remove the little retaining screw and slide the pad out of the holder), and replaced them (slide the new pad in and replace the screw) with new Kool-Stop Salmon-colored road pads (had an extra set in the tool box).  These are my favorites, at least from past experience, and seem to be the preferred pad of many shop people I've talked with.  The salmon pads are actually designed as one of Kool-Stop's "most aggressive compounds for extreme all weather conditions especially in the wet, but still superb in the dry."  I've found them to be very effective on any rim brake system I've used.

Kool-Stop Salmon pad installed on Shimano CX-70 brake

So did they improve the performance of the Shimano CX-70 brakes?  Why, yes, they certainly did!  As always with these pads on cantilever or V-brakes, the first ride included a couple of miles of extremely poor braking accompanied by the loudest screeching known to man.  But a quick stop for minor alignment and toe-in adjustment, and the noise is gone, replaced by a solid grip on the rim when squeezing the lever.  Even when new, these pads work better than the factory Shimano pads.  After a month of riding and wearing them in, they perform WAAAAAAYYYYY better.

Kool-Stop continues to perform for me.  I've now used them on road calipers, V-brakes, center pulls, and cantilevers, and they have been great in every system.  Give them a try ... but go easy when you squeeze the lever the first time.  You don't want to be learning to fly while riding your bike ...

DIY Lace-Keepers!!

If you ride with normal shoes of the non-clipping-in/non-mechanically-attached-to-the-pedal variety, you've no doubt had occasion to question the safety of a shoe with laces.  Laces can easily get caught in your chainring, especially if they come untied from all of your furious pedaling.  This can be very dangerous, bringing the ride to an abrupt halt, and potentially causing injury if you can't find a way to stop yourself from falling over.  This presents a problem, since there are lots of great shoes that would be great bike shoes if the darn laces didn't get in the way.  Fortunately, I haven't caught a lace in my chainring since I was a very young lad ... but the memory of the resulting tumble of humility still haunts me whenever selecting a shoe for a ride.

Some shoes that are designed with bike riding in mind come with some kind of built-in lace keeper, in the form of an elastic loop to tuck the laces in, or a Velcro strap that covers the tied laces.  But what about all the great shoes that don't have that option, since the designer really hadn't thought about bicycling as a priority for the design?  You can buy aftermarket elastic laces similar to the Keen sandal style that have an adjustable clip.  They seem to work pretty well on shoes they were designed for, but I've tried them on regular shoes and found them to be less than perfect for comfort and adjust-ability on good ol' regular shoes.  So ... what else can one do?  Well ... there's a cheap and incredibly easy way to solve the problem.

I present to you ... DIY Lace-Keepers!!!  Yay!!

Start with a normal lace-up type shoe, preferably a matching pair, unless you have a "unique" style requirement.  Here's a pair of light hiking shoes as an example (great for all-around adventure riding/exploring, or whenever you might want to both ride and walk in one pair of shoes):

See how the laces are a bit on the long side?  They're great laces, though ... the kind that stay tied ... so I don't want to change them, but even when tied, they're a little long, and I don't have the patience to double-tie or find a way to shorten them.

I was thinking it would be great if these shoes had some loops to tuck the tied laces into, and thought perhaps some Velcro strips would work.  I happened to have some extra Velcro ... it comes in a roll that can be cut into pieces of any length, and is available at almost any hardware store.  So I cut two strips about four inches long and placed them under the laces where they cross below the top tie location.

Velcro strips cut to length

Strips placed under laces ... second crossing point from top

 After tying the laces as usual, I grabbed all of the tied portion, placed it over the Velcro pointing toward the toe, and wrapped the Velcro around the whole thing.

Velcro strip wrapped around tied laces

 I found this system to be very secure, keeping the laces out of the way while also helping to keep them tied.  I was a little concerned that it might look strange ... but looking at the finished product, I think it looks perfectly fine, although something a little narrower might look nicer.  Of course, you could also get some color-coordinated Velcro, if you prefer ... which I might just do, now that I know it works so well.

It's amazingly simple ... it's incredibly inexpensive ... and it makes any lace-up shoe a million times safer for bike riding.  Try it for yourself and let me know what you think.  And if you have any other genius lace-keeping tricks, please share them!

Back again soon ... be safe out there!!

Surf-O-Lounger Epic Ride!!

When you mention Southern California, many stereotypes come to mind ... beaches, bikinis, surfers, skateboarders, and the fact that when you register with the DMV, your first name is automatically officially changed to either "Dude" or "Bro" (you may or may not have an option, depending on the mood of the clerk).  A laid-back atmosphere is almost always envisioned, along with the cross-culturally-approved attire of board shorts, t-shirt (or alternative Hawaiian-style shirt), sunglasses, and flip-flops (and if you live in San Clemente, the flip-flops MUST be Rainbow brand).  These components are required for SoCal non-workplace clothing code compliance for all dudes and bros.  Only those engaged in more serious sport activities may be exempt from the code, provided they wear either a wetsuit or something similarly form-fitting (spandex).  For all other activities, the standard clothing code applies, and all components are required at all times, both day and night.  Some variation is allowed, however.  For example, you don't have to actually be WEARING all of the approved attire components, as long as you have them with you.  One variation, shown below by a member of the Southern California Beach Cycling Team during a training ride, depicts the sunglasses, flip-flops, and board shorts being worn as usual, with the t-shirt displayed on the bike handlebars.

Approved SoCal attire while training for the Pier-To-Pier Epic Half Decade Trail Ride

Although, I'm not a California native, I've now been here for over ten years, which earned me a special discount at the "Dude, Who Cares?" store.  Nevertheless, I do feel that I've learned just enough about the small region of Southern California in which I reside to truly call it "home".  And when I say "just enough", I mean that I generally don't get too surprised at what I see on a daily basis.

For example, to see a Chihuahua with bright red painted toenails wearing a dress, hat, and sunglasses running from its doorstep to chase and bark at my much larger dog, who doesn't know whether to roll on his back and laugh or throw up, I'm not that surprised.  (In case you're wondering, yes, this actually happened.)

However, when I saw the genius creativity in the following photos taken on the very street where I now live, I must say it took the whole Southern California laid-back surf/skate theme to an entirely new level.  Check it out ... he's got the t-shirt, sunglasses, board shorts, and flip-flops ... but he's not cruisin' on a skateboard or bike ... no, he's cruisin' on a Surf-O-Lounger!

It looks to me like a lounge chair attached to a base with four skateboard trucks.  Awesome!!  He's rigged some steering apparatus via handles on each side, which appears to work very well, since he rode true and straight down the hill.  He just pushes it up to the top, hops in the chair, and rides.  Too cool!!!

I don't know this dude ... but next time he's cruisin' the Surf-O-Lounger, I'll talk with him and see about getting some video for you to see.

I know this post didn't have much to do with bicycles ... but the images were just to cool to not share.  The things you see on the neighborhood streets in San Clemente ...

More bike stuff soon ... hope it's not too hot where you are!  I'm headed out for a little ride that looks kinda like this ...

San Clemente Beach Trail heading North

Review: Boeshield T9

There's a price to pay for owning a bicycle beyond the dough you eagerly fork over to the people from whom you purchased it. You have to perform some basic maintenance in order to keep it working properly. Some people simply take their bike to the shop periodically for such details. That's perfectly fine, as long as you don't mind the associated fees and personal time that accompanies the task ... and as long as you have a local mechanic person in whom you have complete faith to treat your ride with care.

I prefer to tackle the majority of my own bicycle-related work ... at least until such time as I finally realize I either A) don't have a clue about what I'm doing, or B) don't have the proper very expensive tool that I'll use only one time for a specific job and would cost more than having the shop do the work. In most cases, I find it very rewarding to learn how to fix my bikes. The more I know about how everything works, the more "in-tune" I am with the bike as a whole ... and it's much easier to diagnose problems and/or prevent them from happening. Over the past few years, I've learned a lot ... not enough to go and get a job as a bike mechanic, mind you ... but enough to feel very confident that if anything breaks, I can find the problem and fix it or replace the part as needed. The real truth is ... a bicycle isn't all that complicated, at least for the standard component fare. If your bike has hydraulic disc brakes and electronic shifting, however, it might be another story altogether, so proceed at your own risk. For the basics, there are lots of great books and a ton of web information to draw from, although it does help to read multiple authors to get a true sense of what's "correct", since the web also has a lot of clueless individuals who fancy themselves bicycle mechanics and their "instructions" could very well ruin your components. Start small with simple general maintenance stuff ... things that really any cycler can do ... and go from there if you have the desire to learn more.

The basics would include filling your tires with the proper amount of air, learning how to change a tire and tube, keeping the bike generally clean, and performing routine cleaning and lubrication of your chain. That last item is one that's really easy, but is also one of my least favorites. It's a messy job, and if you don't stay on top of it, it only gets messier. It's also a balancing act ... apply too much lube and you get all kinds of dirt in your drivetrain ... apply too little, and you get sluggish shifting, a noisy drivetrain, and premature wear of your cogs and chainrings.

For all of those reasons, there are numerous chain lubrication products on the market, each promising to do a better, and often cleaner, job of keeping your chain moving freely. So which one is the best? That's not always so easy to answer. A lot of that answer depends on your riding conditions ... whether you ride in a dry climate or a wet one ... if you ride in snow and slush or sandy trails ... and whether it's hot or cold. There are products designated as "dry" lubes and "wet" lubes for dry and wet conditions, as well as products claiming to clean and lubricate simultaneously. Simply said, they all work pretty well. You could close your eyes and grab a bottle, and if you follow the directions and use the right amount, and keep it clean ... any of them will work just fine for most cyclers. Where you live and the conditions in which you ride might require more or less frequent maintenance, but I've tried lots of different chain lubes, and they have all worked reasonably well. I haven't really noticed that any product worked noticeably better than another ... that is, until recently.

That recent discovery is the purpose of this post, which I will now finally get around to writing.

Here's my disclaimer: None of the products reviewed here were provided to me by the manufacturer or any retailer for evaluation. Nope. I'm not one of those famous bloggers who gets stuff for free. I purchased everything with my own money, and without any sort of special interweb journalist discount, so you can rest assured that the opinions expressed here are unbiased and come purely through my own experience ... good, bad, or otherwise. That being said, should any manufacturers out there wish to provide some cool bike-related products for ... ummm ... testing and evaluation ... I would likely be open to offering my honest review.

I ride in a Southern California Pacific coastal area, which means we don't see much in the way of rain and snow, but one thing we have plenty of is sand. Sand really loves to stick to stuff that's wet, which is why your feet and legs are completely covered in it after a brief jaunt in the ocean waves as you walk across the beach. Imagine that same sand being constantly flung at a moving chain that's coated with a greasy lubrication product. Yep ... it sticks. Not a huge problem, but it does require wiping the chain clean after every ride, and frequent cleaning of the cogs and chainrings, because sand is very abrasive. I've tried a few of the "dry" lubes that are some kind of waxy base that are supposed to help keep sand from sticking, but never really saw any improvement ... but I did notice the need for more frequent application. For that reason, I never tried Boeshield T9, which is also described as kind of a waxy-dry lube. I thought it would yield the same results as the others, so I basically ignored it. When my usual bottle of lube started to run low, however, I thought it might be time to try something different, so I consulted the folks at Rivendell who built my Hunqapillar. I figured they would have a pretty good idea about what works in sandy conditions, since they're in Northern California and ride a whole lot of trails. Their recommendation was to try the T9, so I did.

Boeshield T-9 spray can ... no fluorocarbons!

T-9 was developed by the Boeing Company for use on high-tech stuff ... like airplane parts. That's a pretty good design spec ... if it's good enough for airplanes, it's probably good for my bike. It's waterproof, and protects against not just rust, but corrosion, too. In fact, lots of people use this product to treat the inside of their steel bike frames for that very purpose. The claim, much like many of the "dry" type lubes, is that since it forms a dry waterproof coating, sand and dirt do not stick ... therefore, the chain will stay cleaner and there will be less wear on the cogs and chainrings. Sounds good in theory, but I was not yet convinced it would be any better than the others I've tried. It comes in a general purpose spray can like the one in the photo, as well as smaller drip bottles like a typical chain lube. I opted for the spray can, which I normally wouldn't do, but in this case it seemed like a good option for an all-around lube. The spray version actually turned out to be a good choice, as it covers a lot more chain in less time than the usual one-drop-per-link method, and as it's applied directly to the chain, it seems to penetrate a little better.

Although they don't specifically state this in the instructions, it's always a good idea to completely clean your chain before switching lubrication types. Getting rid of the old lube will allow the new to work at its best. I recommend removing the chain and cleaning it thoroughly with a degreaser of some kind, like Simple Green. If you don't want to take the chain off, just spray it on a rag and clean the chain until it's shiny and no more black comes off on the rag. With a clean chain, the spray application is fast and easy ... hold a clean rag under the chain where you're spraying, turn the crank to move the chain to the next section and repeat ... wipe the chain with the rag as you turn the crank to remove the excess ... then let it dry for at least 2 hours. The last part is important, because the lube needs a little time to work into all of the rollers and pins on your chain, and as the lube dries, it forms a waxy waterproof coating over everything.

Once it's dry, you can gently wipe the chain again ... and you're ready to roll. It sounds like a lot of work, but you only need to do the heavy cleaning before the first application, and the rest only takes a couple of minutes on the evening before your next ride.

How does it perform? In a word ... fantastic! On the first ride after initial application, I noticed a quieter drivetrain and very smooth shifting. When I got home after a long ride through a fair bit of sandy area, I looked at the chain and, to my delight, saw no sand or grit anywhere on the chain or cogs. No need to wipe down the chain! The really cool part was that when I reached down to inspect, the chain was dry and left no grease on my hand. How awesome is that? I've never had a bike chain that didn't leave a greasy black mark when I touch it. If it lasted, I would be totally sold.

So does it hold up? Yep. I rode for almost a month, nearly every day, after that first application. No wiping the chain down after every ride ... no reapplication of lube. It was only when the chain started to get a tiny bit stiff and began to shift with less ease that I reapplied. The second application was quick and easy ... spray and wipe, then let dry. Shiny, clean, smooth-running chain ... and no greasy marks!

I have to say, I'm very impressed and very pleased. And once again ... the folks at Rivendell gave me great advice. I have now changed my opinion on chain lubes: there IS a difference, and there IS one that's best ... at least for my riding conditions. I can't speak for how it works in snowy wet places, but it sure holds up well for me, stays clean, and the sand and dirt don't stick. I did get caught in the rain on one ride, though, and didn't notice any lube washing away as a result.

As a little bonus, T-9 isn't offered merely as a bicycle lube ... the can lists lots of other household and workshop applications. It is used to coat shop tool surfaces to keep them smooth and free of oxidation. It can also be used around the house for many things. I have a set of vertical blinds that were sticking in the track ... no longer with the T-9. A very useful product, indeed. Give it a try ...

Review: Fyxation Mesa Pedals!

This is going to be brief ... or at least brief for me, in comparison with my other reviews. I'd just like to offer my experience with a set of pedals that I purchased for my Hunqapillar in hopes they would be the "right" ones. I'll save the whole clipless vs. toe-clip vs. flat pedal topic for another time. It's worth discussing, but perhaps not in this context.

Here's my disclaimer:  None of the products reviewed here were provided to me by the manufacturer or any retailer for evaluation. Nope. I'm not one of those famous bloggers who gets stuff for free. I purchased everything with my own money, and without any sort of special interweb journalist discount, so you can rest assured that the opinions expressed here are unbiased and come purely through my own experience ... good, bad, or otherwise. That being said, should any manufacturers out there wish to provide some cool bike-related products for ... ummm ... testing and evaluation ... I would likely be open to offering my honest review.

When I ordered my Hunqapillar, I had some pedals that I intended to install ... ones that had worked reasonably well for me in the past ... and I was content with that choice. While I was waiting for the bike to be assembled and shipped, however, I stumbled across a newer pedal that seemed like it might be a really good model to try ... and the spontaneous splurge soothed my impatience in waiting for the Woolly Mammoth Bike.

The new pedal is from Fyxation, called the Mesa, which isn't really "new" anymore, but was relatively so at the time of purchase. Here's a photo:

I'm not exactly the primary demographic for this pedal, as you might guess from the manufacturer's description:

The Fyxation Mesa Pedal is ideal for freeride, BMX and urban riders that want a hard hitting pedal built to withstand abuse and provide a solid platform for any style of riding. Made out of a high impact nylon the Mesa is wide platform pedal with a super thin profile that will work with most of today’s popular foot retention systems.

- High impact nylon body built to take abuse
- Smooth running sealed bearings with a cro-moly spindle
- Molded surface pegs for a super grippy ride
- Compatible with most foot retention systems

Well ... although I'm not into BMX or Freeride, and I'm not exactly what you'd call an "urban" rider, this pedal still had a lot of appeal to me. The platform is very large ... bigger than any of my other pedals. The bearings are sealed, which maybe doesn't make much difference, but does reduce the maintenance. The body and pegs are made from "high impact nylon", which means it's pretty durable and won't rip up the soles of my shoes. The spindle is "cro-moly" steel, which should make for a strong axle to spin on. Plus, the "built to withstand abuse" part gave me the impression it would be a heavy-duty, durable pedal. All of this sounded like just the right stuff for what I do with a bike.

The only concern I had is that they're only available in black, bright red, and white. None of these colors are quite the right fit for a classic lugged steel frame with silver components. I worried that they would stick out like a pair of neon striped socks on an all black tuxedo. Nevertheless, I ordered a pair of the black pedals to try.

The pedals arrived long before the bike ... and I had time to look at them and have endless debates with myself  about whether or not they would look okay with the Hunqapillar. When the bike arrived, I put them on ... and finally decided they could stay. Here's what they look like on the bike:

It turns out they weren't as hideous as I'd imagined, rather just blending in ... and they match the tires. Okay ... so it's not really a plus to have your pedal match your tires when they're black ... but it helps somehow in my mind.

So how do they work? In a word ... FANTASTIC.

The pedals I originally intended to use are the MKS Lambda, also known as the Rivendell Grip King. I'd used these pedals for quite a while on other bikes and always considered them my favorite, but felt they were lacking just a tiny bit in three areas. First, they're a little narrower than I ultimately would prefer, and with some shoes I feel as though half of my foot is hanging off the side. Second, the grip is very good and lets me re-position my feet easily, but can sometimes be just a tiny bit less grip than I'd like. I put some metal pedal spikes on a pair as recommended by Rivendell, and it does help, however, it also takes away a little bit of the full contact of the pedal surface. Third, the middle of the pedal body has no real support, so my foot is really only supported by the front and rear of the pedal, which also makes use with some of my preferred shoes less than optimal. Shoes with flat soles are great, but if there's a curved forefoot or a relief in the arch area, not so great. They also seem to promote a more "foot forward" position, which I like, but is not always preferred, as it can occasionally result in a minor collision between toe and fender.

Back to the Fyxation Mesa. This pedal answers all of the tiny issues I had with the Grip Kings. The platform of the Mesa is just a hair shorter, but substantially wider, and my feet always feel well supported in any of my shoes. The nylon pins provide a truly great grip, regardless of my shoe choice ... and yet they don't take away from full contact with the pedal. And my thought was correct that the non-metal pins don't seem to eat my shoes (or my shins) like the ones on other BMX style pedals. Finally, there's a nice solid support beam across the center of the pedal body, so no matter how I position my foot, it always feels like there's something under it ... once again, with any of my shoes. I've used them with everything from Birkenstock sandals to hiking shoes, and they all work very well.

Being the continual skeptic that I am, I swapped them out for the Grip Kings a couple of weeks ago, just to see if my assessment was accurate. Scientifically, I used them for three rides, with three different pairs of shoes. Sure enough, I immediately felt less supported in those little ways. So, without hesitation, I put the Mesa's back on.

I love that no matter where my feet are on the pedal, they feel solidly supported. This is a wonderful thing, since I do tend to move my feet around a lot on longer rides to prevent that little toe numbness that sometimes creeps in (this is one of the reasons I no longer use clip-in type pedals). I believe it's because of the nice broad support that I also feel more strength on longer hills.

They appear to be very rugged, although I've only used them for the past three months. There is no sign of any deterioration or sloppiness in the spindle, and all of the nylon pins are still intact.

And if it matters to you, they're incredibly light and very thin. Some say the thin profile brings your feet closer to the spindle, thereby lowering your center of gravity. Well ... okay, if a couple of millimeters makes a difference, then yep, they do it. I can't tell, myself ... but that's just me. They are also supposed to be compatible with the newer breed of pedal straps that help keep your feet in place. My feet stay on just fine without them, so I don't find any need for that sort of thing ... and as I mentioned, I like to move my feet around. But if you like them, this pedal might be a good design for you.

Are there any negatives? Well ... other than they don't come in a matching gray for my Hunqapillar, it's difficult to think of any. I suppose the extra wide platform might be prone to striking the ground if you ride really fast and lean hard into turns while pedaling, but that's not my style, so I've not experienced it. Also, the grip is so good that re-positioning my feet sometimes takes a little more effort, but not enough to be a concern.

I really like the Fyxation Mesa pedals. If money were no object, I'd certainly not hesitate to put them on all of my other bikes. If only I was one of those famous professional bloggers who gets stuff for free ...

So much for being "brief" ..... Happy riding!!

Review: Rivendell Sackville Bags Part 2!

It's time for Part 2 of the Rivendell Sackville Bags Review! WooHoo! In Part 1, I showed you the bags I'm using most often, the Medium SaddleSack and the SlickerSack/Platrack combo. In this second installment, I'd like to cover some of the other incredibly useful products from this great line. These are the ones I use slightly less often, which means not EVERY day, but frequently enough that I consider them to be invaluable tools.

Here's my disclaimer:  None of the products reviewed here were provided to me by the manufacturer or any retailer for evaluation. Nope. I'm not one of those famous bloggers who gets stuff for free. I purchased everything with my own money, and without any sort of special interweb journalist discount, so you can rest assured that the opinions expressed here are unbiased and come purely through my own experience ... good, bad, or otherwise. That being said, should any manufacturers out there wish to provide some cool bike-related products for ... ummm ... testing and evaluation ... I would likely be open to offering my honest review.

First, let's take a look at the Sackville ShopSacks. These handy bags are intended (and designed specifically) for use with Wald model 137 and 139 wire baskets. The Medium ShopSack fits the 15" model 137 basket, and the Large ShopSack fits the 18" model 139 basket.

Medium ShopSack & Wald 137 left - Large ShopSack & Wald 139 right

ShopSacks & Wald Baskets ... Brass Snap Hook attachment

The baskets can be purchased through Rivendell, as well as the Soma Fabrications Store (available here in both black and silver), and I'm guessing lots of other places for $20-$23. The ShopSacks will cost a bit more, but are well worth the price, as they are quite versatile both on and off the bike.

Either of the Wald baskets can be mounted to a front or rear rack with simple plastic zip ties, or with any number of creative applications of wire, Velcro straps, etc.  Once mounted to your rack, the appropriately-sized ShopSack just slips in and clips to the basket with two heavy-duty brass snap-hooks to keep it from moving about.

Heavy-Duty Brass Snap Hooks for attachment

Medium ShopSack & 137 Basket on my Surly LHT

This combination of bag and basket lets you carry all kinds of stuff. Although it was designed primarily as a grocery type tote bag, it comes in handy for carrying whatever you need for your daily commute ... clothes, books, lunch, personal items, and so on. It's made from Scottish all-cotton fabric and U.S. made military-spec webbing for the handles (per the Rivendell website). It goes on and off the bike in seconds, and stays put while it's there, keeping the contents secure with a nice strong zipper that has sturdy brass pulls. There's a strip of bright reflective material on one side that will be quite visible in headlights. The handles are sturdy, and long enough for a good grip or even to carry on your shoulder ... or if you prefer, you could attach another strap to the hooks.

Size-wise, the Medium ShopSack is a little bigger than a standard grocery bag, in that it is wider than it is tall, which makes putting stuff in and carrying it easier ... plus you can pack it more with heavier items, having no fear of a "bag failure". In practice, I find that I can usually put almost twice what I'd attempt in a standard grocery bag.

ShopSacks with standard grocery bag for reference ... but they actually hold  much more than it appears!

The Large ShopSack should really be called the "Huge" ShopSack, because that's just what it is. If you fill this bag with canned goods, you might need some help carrying it ... yes, it holds that much. It will hold an entire box of fire logs and a package of toilet paper. I know, I know ... why would I do that? Good question ... but one day I needed fire logs, the box was a great buy, and I had panniers and the huge ShopSack, so I bought them and loaded up with the rest of my groceries in the panniers. It all fit ... but I wouldn't recommend it unless your ride home is a short one.

Simple interior and WIDE opening for easy loading/unloading

While the cost may seem a bit high for what appears to be a basic shopping tote, I can tell you that it is much more than basic, and much more than just a shopping tote. I've been using one of the Medium ShopSacks for almost two years now, and it shows very little signs of wear. The zipper is still smooth and secure, the handles are strong as ever, the brass snap-hooks are still shiny and sturdy, and the fabric has only become softer with a bit of normal wear from scuffs and scrapes during regular use.

Sturdy zipper and heavy-duty brass pulls ... quality materials throughout

I've used this bag for grocery runs, carrying odd items on the bike, carrying miscellaneous audio/video gear to job locations, and as a carry-on bag for airline travel. It has performed so well that it is my "go-to" bag for ... well, for whenever I need a bag! We use one of the Large ShopSacks as a general purpose tool bag ... and beach-stuff bag ... and suitcase substitute. They're incredibly versatile, great-looking, and very durable. They will outlast any other bag of their kind, without doubt. When used for shopping by bike, they make life very easy, as you can take the bag in with you as your reusable grocery bag. No more extra plastic in the landfill, and no more flimsy store-brand reusable bags that break and wear out. Filled with stuff you buy, it then goes back in the basket for the ride home, then right into the house to unload ... and it is then ready for the next task.

Next up is a set of two bags that are possibly the most stylish of the whole line; the TrunkSacks. There are two sizes, Small and Large.

Sackville TrunkSacks: Small (left) and Large (right)

The Small TrunkSack is designed to be carried on a small front rack such as the Nitto Mark's Rack or Mini Front. The Large TrunkSack is designed to be carried on a rear rack, and will work with almost any type ... however, it is most perfectly mounted on a Nitto R-14 Top Rack. Attachment is simple, with a riveted leather panel that slips over the rack loop, and four brass snaps on leather straps that wrap around the rack rails. If your rack doesn't have a loop, don't worry ... the four snap straps are enough to keep it in place.

Riveted leather panel slips over the rack loop

Leather straps wrap around rack rails and attach with heavy brass snaps

The bags are closed with nice zippers and brass pulls, with leather storm flaps running along the sides to help keep water out in the event of rain. Although it's not technically waterproof, the fabric is quite water-repellent, and unless it's raining heavy, the inside should stay pretty dry. Keep in mind that I live in Southern California, though, so my expertise in rain gear might be the equivalent of an Eskimo instructing you on how to select summer beach attire.

There's some nice reflective material running all around the outside of the bag, which is very bright in nighttime conditions, as well as in the sunshine. The Large TrunkSack also has a leather loop for a rear light attachment ... a very nice little feature if you happen to ride after dark.

Leather light loop and reflective material for safety!

On the top of each bag are four brass "D" rings, secured with heavily stitched cotton. These can be helpful if you need a place to secure your jacket when you get too hot, or any other light-ish item that could be strapped on with a bungee cord. I've often clipped a shoulder strap on them as a way to carry the bag, since there's no built-in handle.

Sturdy brass "D" rings for strapping stuff on!

The inside of the TrunkSacks is very simple ... just an open space for whatever you want to put in. This is good, because it's not pre-configured with pockets or dividers that may not fit your particular needs. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that there is no padding to protect anything fragile. If you just drop in your keys and cell phone, they'll be free to roll around, rattle, and scratch each other at will. I have devised a couple of small modifications to help with this, and to make them custom fit for my application.

My small TrunkSack is generally used for any personal items I need for a ride ... phone, keys, wallet, garage door opener, handkerchief, small pad of paper and pen. To keep things from rattling around and give it all a little padding, I cut a piece from a bargain bin yoga mat to perfectly fit the interior space. The dense material adds some structure to maintain the box shape of the bag, and gives some padding for the contents. One yoga mat goes a long way for useful padding in lots of applications!

Small TrunkSack with Bargain Bin Yoga Mat Interior ... simple, effective, and cheap!

My Large TrunkSack was purchased to carry my Nikon DSLR, so it was an absolute necessity to add some protection for the camera. Sure, I could have just put some towels or an old sweatshirt in there, but that just isn't stylish enough ... and putting the camera in another bag inside this bag seemed tedious when I needed quick access. So after doing some measuring ... and experimenting with a few ideas ... going back to the drawing board and doing some research ... I stumbled across something that happens to work amazingly well and seems perfectly designed for this bag. Another bike bag company, Zimbale, makes a product called the Camera Protect Case that is designed for their saddle bag line ... and the 7/11 liter size fits the Large TrunkSack like a glove!

Large TrunkSack with Zimbale 7/11 liter Camera Protect Case insert.

The Zimbale insert nicely holds my Nikon with extra lens and extras.

With the modifications I've made, the TrunkSacks have been quite useful, and they are very stylish on the bike. They have a compact appearance, in spite of their interior capacity, and in my opinion, are the nicest looking rack-top bags available. They are quick to attach and even quicker to remove, and they are easily customized to fit a wide variety of applications.

Small TrunkSack in use!

Large TrunkSack in use!

Small and Large TrunkSacks ... stylish matching luggage for your bike!!

Well ... there you have it ... Rivendell Sackville Bags Part 2! Thanks for reading!!

Review: Rivendell Sackville Bags - Part 1

If you're like me, you like to bring stuff with you when you ride. After all, it's not simply about pedaling a bicycle ... it's also about finding fun things to take photos of, stopping to write down some notes of the inspired thought that would otherwise disappear by the time you get home, making sure you're equipped for minor road or trail mechanical emergencies, and so on. Basically, you want to have the stuff with you that you might need or find useful for your daily adventure. And who knows when you'll find some kind of unique treasure along the way that you just have to take home ...

It follows that if you're going to bring stuff with you, you'll need some place to put it while you ride ... something to carry it all in. Sure, you could just grab a backpack ... but then you have all that extra weight hanging around your neck, shoulders, and back ... and that can be restrictive, hot, and tiring ... and it makes the riding less fun. No ... you need bike baggage ... and I have some product reviews for you today that might be just what you're looking for.

Here's my disclaimer:  None of the products reviewed here were provided to me by the manufacturer or any retailer for evaluation. Nope. I'm not one of those famous bloggers who gets stuff for free. I purchased everything with my own money, and without any sort of special interweb journalist discount, so you can rest assured that the opinions expressed here are unbiased and come purely through my own experience ... good, bad, or otherwise. That being said, should any manufacturers out there wish to provide some cool bike-related products for ... ummm ... testing and evaluation ... I would likely be open to offering my honest review.

Rivendell Bicycle Works offers more than just a fine selection of bicycles. Among their other products is a line of bags designed for use on your bike. This set of bags is produced under the name Sackville:

I like the slogan "Sacks for Cyclers" ... sounds better than "Cyclists", don't you think?

The Sackville line is made in the good ol' USA, and the bags are constructed with high quality heavy weight waxed and waterproof cotton duck, with leather trim and brass hardware. Non-leather versions are available in some models for the anti-leather folks out there. Several styles are available, from simple tool rolls to handlebar bags, rack-top trunk bags, saddle bags, and some unique bags designed for basket use.

Today's review (Part 1 of 2) will focus on the two bags I'm currently using the most on my Hunqapillar. These are the Medium SaddleSack and the SlickerSack.

First, let's look at the Sackville Medium SaddleSack:

Lots of brass hardware for strapping on what can't fit inside!

Zippered pockets on both sides for easy access! Leather flaps to keep water out!

This bag has a large main compartment and two side zippered pockets. It is large enough to hold my toolkit, small camera tripod, notebook and pen, picnic blanket, and lunch with room to spare for an extra layer of clothing or extra camera gear. The side zip pockets are great for my cell phone, keys, and wallet. The bag comes with a snap-on pouch that could also be used for small valuable personal items, the idea being that you can quickly remove it and take it with you, leaving the saddlebag attached. I like the idea, but generally don't use it, since I'm always with my bike when I'm out (this is not my shopping bike ... too attractive to would-be thieves).

The main compartment is accessed through a large rear cover flap that has a nice strip of reflective material sewn on for safety. It's very bright when lights hit it at night, but is also very useful in the daytime ... can't imagine anyone not seeing this. The cover flap is secured with adjustable-length leather straps, smartly equipped with sturdy brass snap fittings for quick and easy opening and closing. This was an important feature for me, since buckling and unbuckling of the normal strap closures is tedious (and I'm often impatient).

Snap open ... just guide through the D-ring for opening or closing the main flap

Snap closed ... strong and secure ... fast and easy.  I like!

For the same reason, I really appreciate the zippered side pockets. Many large saddlebags use buckle closures on the straps for those, and it's just too much extra effort when I want to get in or out of the pocket. Zippers and snaps are fast and easy.

Inside the bag, you'll find a Corroplast plate attached to the bottom with wide Velcro strips to provide a stiff and stable shape, keeping the bag from getting droopy. It works very well, and is virtually weightless, but since it's a hard material, things can rattle around on top of it without some kind of padding. For this, I purchased a clearance bin fleece throw blanket and trimmed it to picnic size, then used it to line the bottom of the bag. It serves double purpose for providing bag padding and occasional lawn covering for actual picnic applications or if I need to lay the bike down for a quick tube replacement, etc. The main compartment has a large inner cotton duck storm flap that also helps to keep your stuff secured, and might even help keep it in the bag if you forget to snap the straps on the outer flap.

Inner flap covers and secures your stuff!

Inner flap open ... inside: tripod, camera strap, tools, and more!

Tools, spare tubes, large portable pump, notebook, picnic blanket ...room for more

This bag can be attached to just the loops on your Brooks saddle, with a strap around the seatpost, as the Corroplast stiffener will maintain the bottom shape. There are rings on the bottom of the bag if you need to raise it or provide some additional support in this mounting fashion. Or ... as I prefer to do, especially with a smaller bike frame ... you can mount the bag to a rear rack. Almost any rack will work, but I've opted to use a Nitto R-14 Top Rack, which can be positioned lower and closer to the seat tube than a standard rack on my small frame. This rack also has a U-shaped loop on top that fits into a leather slot on the bag front:

Leather slot fits over rack loop to secure the bag.

The main straps wrap around a sturdy wooden dowel inside the leather strip on the bag for solid support and stability, and are attached to the bag loops on my saddle:

Wooden dowel anchored straps attached to Brooks saddle bag loops

The bottom of the bag has a leather surface for abrasion resistance, with slots for additional security when mounting on a rack. I used two heavy zip ties to secure the back end of the bag to the rack top.

Zip ties through leather slots secure the bag and prevent any movement.

I almost forgot to mention this, since it's generally not a huge concern of mine, but this bag is very light. Looking at it, one might expect it to add considerable weight to the bike. In reality, although it's made from heavy-duty materials, those materials are also quite light in comparison to the weight of comparable bags or panniers. When empty, it feels the same to me as if there was no bag there at all. The only weight I ever notice is that of its contents, but even then, it's not a problem, because it's positioned properly where bike handling is not affected.

I love the Medium SaddleSack! It has made it possible for me to go ride without ever having concern for where I might put something. It's never more than I need ... and never less. I must admit that when I first received the shipment from Rivendell, I thought I may have made a mistake. I was unaccustomed to seeing a bag this large on my bike, and it almost looked like much more than I needed. However, after using it for a few days, it suddenly didn't look so out-of-place to me, and the usefulness has made me wonder why I waited so long. It is now just a part of my bike ... I put in what I need, take out what I don't, and don't even think about it being there when it's empty.

The second bag I use regularly now is the Sackville SlickerSack, which is unfortunately now discontinued (but still available as of this post writing). That's a real shame, because it's a brilliant design. I almost never got it, because it was fairly expensive, but when Rivendell had their first ever sale and put it on their "going away" list, I figured I'd better get one while I still could.

The SlickerSack was, according to the product information, designed to be the ultimate commuter bag for carrying a small laptop, books, or camera gear. It was made specifically to fit the Nitto Platrack (also now discontinued ... but still available as of this post writing). The Platrack is an add-on "porteur" style platform for a Nitto Mark's Rack or Mini Front Rack. The Platrack platform, once initially installed and adjusted, can be put on or removed from the front rack in a couple of minutes, making the whole system quite versatile for quick changes with different front bag setups. Possibly the reason the bag didn't sell as well as hoped is the requirement for the two rack components, but the idea was that many people already had the Mark's or Mini Front rack (which I did), and so only need the Platrack and bag. I also already had the Platrack, which I used as a base for a large basket on my "grocery bike". It worked extremely well there, but has now been transferred for use with the SlickerSack.

Here's the SlickerSack/Platrack combination, mounted on a Nitto Mini Front rack:

Nicely designed ... great attention to small details ... notice the wrap-around reflective material

Even the zipper pulls are leather and brass ... awesome!

It's basically a nicely designed briefcase-style bag, but with some well-thought-out touches. It has a sturdy zipper around the top, with nice brass and leather pulls. There are two brass D-rings for use with the included matching shoulder strap, so you can carry it easily off the bike. The top has slots for attaching straps ... handy if you need some extra space to secure a jacket or yoga mat or whatever. There's a handle on the front for carrying, which is firmly sewn in ... I can't see it ever coming off. And there's some nice reflective material sewn all the way around near the bottom. It is an extremely lightweight bag, but is also very durable and well made.

It attaches to the bike with a leather slot that fits over the U-shaped loop of the rack, and four heavy-duty brass snaps on leather straps that attach around the Platrack rails.

Leather slot slips over rack loop

Brass snaps secure the bag to the Platrack rails

I got this bag to use as a case for my Olympus PEN E-PL3 camera, with extra lens, flash, viewfinder, spare battery and other accessories. I love the look of these bags, and it seemed like a nice way to go that would work well on the bike, but also be presentable off the bike for any of the more "professional" places that I would be taking the camera system. It has worked very well in that regard, although I did make some internal modifications for protection of my camera and gear.

The inside has a Corroplast panel, which is attached to the bottom of the bag with wide and strong Velcro strips. The side panels of the bag have some lightly-padded material, and there are two dividers included that can be placed with Velcro as desired. I did not use those, as I had other plans. Since I wanted the best protection from vibration and impact for my camera and gear, I used a set of foam pieces made for the interior of a Pelican equipment case. The foam had to be cut and glued to match the front curve and exact size of the SlickerSack, and sections removed to fit the camera, extra lens, and accessories. I used a 1" thick piece of foam as a bottom (which sits on top of the Corroplast), with a 2" thickness of custom cut foam for the camera/accesories, and a piece of 2" egg-crate foam in the top of the case. Once cut to fit and glued, it all worked perfectly, and the inside now looks like this:

Custom cut foam insert and top panel ... Olympus PEN E-PL3 camera and accessories ready to roll!

The camera is protected very well, and the entire bag (now really more of a "case") with camera and all accessories is incredibly light. The main foam insert for the camera can be easily removed if I ever need to use the bag in another capacity, since it isn't actually attached to the bag, but fits snugly and does its job well. The bag goes on and off the front rack quite easily, although I do need to unzip the bag and reach inside to assure a firm connection when snapping the straps (some pressure from inside the bag is required). When I get to my destination, a quick unsnapping of the straps and sliding off the rack loop frees the whole thing, and I'm off and running.

One nice benefit of this system is that I can stop and grab the camera relatively fast without getting off the bike. The zippers are within reach, and it's no problem to get the camera as its positioned in the case.

Having this bag on the front of the bike changes the handling in such a small way that I didn't even notice it after about 30 seconds of riding. Any front bag will change handling to some degree, but this one is so little that it's a non-issue. I only mention it because some of you may be wondering.

The only negative I have found is that the Corroplast panel tends to make some noise against the metal rack over bumps. I have resolved this little issue by inserting some light fleece blanket material (left over from the one I cut for the SaddleSack) under the Corroplast to give it a little cushion. The fleece is thin enough to fit, but cushy enough to buffer the Corroplast.

So there you have it ... the Medium SaddleSack and SlickerSack ... my two favorite Rivendell Sackville bags! Part 2 will include the Sackville Trunk Bags, ShopSack, and Mark's ToolWrap ... very clever items with many applications.

Stay tuned ...